A burst pipe can cause more damage in one night than years of weather exposure. The water from a single frozen pipe can destroy flooring, damage walls, and create mold conditions that take months to remediate.
Winterizing plumbing sounds intimidating, but it’s really just a checklist. It requires a systematic approach and attention to detail. Here is the complete process.
Step 1: Shut Off the Water Supply
Locate your main water shutoff valve. It’s typically where the water line enters the cabin — in the basement, crawl space, or near the water heater.
Turn the valve clockwise until it stops. If the valve is old or stiff, turn it gently — forcing it can cause damage that leads to leaks.
If your cabin has a well pump: Turn off the power to the pump at the breaker panel. This prevents the pump from running if the system loses pressure during draining.
Step 2: Drain the Pressure Tank
If your cabin has a well pressure tank, it needs to be drained separately. After shutting off the power, open a faucet inside the cabin and let the water run until the pressure gauge reads zero. Then open the drain valve at the bottom of the pressure tank.
Step 3: Open All Faucets
Starting from the highest point in the cabin and working down, open every faucet. This includes:
- Kitchen faucet (hot and cold)
- Bathroom faucets (hot and cold)
- Shower and bathtub fixtures
- Utility sink faucets
- Outdoor spigots
Leave them all open. As water drains from the system, air needs to enter to replace it, and open faucets provide that air entry.
Step 4: Flush Toilets
Flush each toilet and hold the handle down to empty as much water as possible from the tank and bowl. Use a sponge or towel to remove remaining water from the bottom of the tank and bowl.
Critical step: Pour a cup of non-toxic RV antifreeze into each toilet bowl and tank. This prevents any remaining water from freezing. Do not use automotive antifreeze — it’s toxic and can harm septic systems.
Step 5: Drain the Water Heater
Turn off the water heater (gas or electric). Attach a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank and run it to a floor drain or outside. Open the valve and let the tank drain completely.
After draining, open the pressure relief valve briefly to allow air into the tank for complete drainage. Close it again when done.
Step 6: Add Antifreeze to Drains
Water trapped in P-traps under sinks and in shower drains will freeze and crack without protection.
For each drain in the cabin:
- Remove any standing water with a sponge
- Pour one cup of RV antifreeze down each drain
- Pour a small amount into the dishwasher drain and washing machine drain
This is inexpensive insurance. A gallon of RV antifreeze costs about $5 and will protect all drains in a typical cabin.
Step 7: Protect Outdoor Plumbing
Disconnect and drain all garden hoses. If your cabin has frost-free outdoor spigots, confirm they’re draining properly — the design relies on the valve being inside the heated space.
For non-frost-free spigots, shut off the interior valve if one exists, then open the outdoor spigot to drain the line. Leave it open for the winter.
Step 8: Document What You Did
Take photos of your shutoff valves, water heater settings, and any notes about what you turned off. When you return in spring and want to restore the system, you’ll have a record of every step.
When You Return: Restarting the System
Restarting your plumbing after winter is simpler than winterizing, but it should be done carefully.
- Close all faucets and drain valves
- Turn on the water supply slowly
- Check for leaks at every connection point
- Turn on faucets one at a time, starting from the lowest point
- Listen for unusual sounds in the pipes
- Check the water heater before turning it on — it must be full of water before heating
If you find a leak, shut off the water immediately and assess the damage. Small leaks at joints can often be repaired with simple tightening. A burst pipe requires professional repair.
When to Skip Winterization
If you plan to visit your cabin regularly during winter, you may not need to fully winterize. Instead:
- Keep the thermostat set to at least 50°F
- Open cabinet doors under sinks to allow warm air to reach pipes
- Let faucets drip slightly during extreme cold snaps
- Install pipe heating cables on exposed pipes
This approach uses more energy but allows year-round access without the hassle of full winterization.